The ultimate whoopee pie taste testing could take just about forever. Considering that the most likely place to find The Real Whoopee Pie is beside the cash register in a convenience store or gas station, the search as well as the eating could take a bit of time.
With that in mind, I stopped at the Eggemoggin Country Store . Eggemoggin has its own bakery and turns out the sweeties every day. I love their molasses ginger cookies and the date squares. It took me three separate stops to find the whoopees actually in the bake display case. Probably I was too early in the morning -- donuts are on the menu then, selling out by 10:30am or so. We bought three donuts a couple of weeks ago to sample -- they were very pretty and BIG, but so heavy we couldn't finish them and fed them to the birds. Though we wondered if the birds could fly after eating...
Here's the Eggemoggin version of the whoopee:
If you think this whoopee looks a little strange, sort of like a drunken toadstool, you are right. Believe it or not, you can now buy a PAN specifically dedicated to whoopee cake baking. It's like a big flat cupcake pan, and called a 12-Cavity Whoopee Pie Pan. I do not think that the manufacturer sees the irony in having "cavity" in the pan name.
Now, this starts right off with a cheat. The whoopee pie bun batter should be rather dense and able to hold its rounded shape without a pan with sides. To use a molded pan implies a looser batter that needs to be contained like a cake, and that is what this whoopee seems to have had. It results in a bun that has a spongier bite, rather than the drier, breadier version that is traditional. Maybe it was from a cake mix? Possible, with the pan. Plus, the resultant shape (drunken toadstool) is just not esthetically pleasing, and the touch is stickier, somewhat gluey. See the crumb stuck to the plate below?
One really should never complain about a whoopee pie. Even the bad one are lick-your-fingers good. And so is this one. But I'd like less of the frosting filling and a traditional drier bun. Interestingly, I had on the counter the remains of the Frank's Bakery whoopee that I wrote about earlier, and I found myself eating away at it rather than the Eggemoggin one, even though it was a day older, had ridden all over the state of Maine, and was somewhat squashed. Frank rules.
Okay, just one more, this one from The Galley (same owner as Burnt Cove, same, though less, inventory). This one, the Classic Wicked Whoopie, was made by Amy at Isamax Snacks in Gardiner, Maine, who also made the maple whoopie my niece gave out at her wedding. (Nice touch, Julia!)
Now, this time I remembered to take a picture of the ingredients label, though it is so small that it was essentially unreadable, maybe on purpose:
Sorry, folks, but that is a lot more than flour, sugar, crisco and cocoa. Remember that these whoopie's need to sit on the shelf for who knows how long.
Okay, my first thought is "That is a LOT of filling." I was right. However, no drunken toadstool look, and clearly no use of the dreaded 12-Cavity Whoopee Pie Pan. Those cookies hold their shape.
Taste test: Fudgy, chocolate-y, drier than the Eggemoggin, but not the nice bready tooth that the Frank's Bakery had. Way too much filling. And a vaguely chemically taste, I swear I was not influenced by trying to read all that fine print on the label.
Interesting that the Frank's whoopee was the least fudgy, the driest, but tasted the most authentic. Since Franks probably makes theirs every day, even with riding it around Maine all day in the car, it was still the best of the lot, even the next day. No ingredients label, but I suspect just the honest flour, sugar, Crisco and cocoa.
The lesson (so far): The best is probably the freshest and without all the chemical preservatives and long shelf life. If you are going to be bad and chow down on a whoopee, try getting the freshest one you can, from a baker you can trust.
But they are all good.